Dining out in Ubud

Although we believe that the food prepared by our cook at Villa Kalisha is some of the best Balinese food you will find, Ubud is incredibly well supplied with fine restaurants, cafes and foodstalls of almost every variety, from Mexican to Japanese to German to Italian and so it is likely that some nights you are going to want to grab a car and head into the centre of Ubud. Standards of hygeine are generally excellent in all restaurants, and even in the foodstalls. Water served is always either bottled or sterlised by boiling, and the ice is safe, too. So don't worry too much, just drive right in and eat whatever and whenever you feel like it.

Ubud is not however renowned as a hot place for the wilder kind of nightlife, so there are are no discos or night clubs to speak of. There's plenty of music though, and lots of atmostpheric friendly restaurants and bars where you are likely to meet both tourists and local Ubuddites.

Here are some of our favourites:

Kampung Cafe – Tegallalang. The closest restaurant to Villa Kalisha being only a few minutes drive or a pleasant 20 minute walk. A big, open restaurant with fantastic rice terrace views and a large and well-equipped kitchen. The menu and kitchen staff were put together by the former executive chef from the world-famous Amandari hotel in Sayan, and they certainly know how to bake. Sometimes holds special events with live music at night. Look for flyers around Ubud or just ask the staff to call up and find out what is going on.

Bebek Bengil - Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal. This long-time favourite restaurant in South Ubud, is open pretty late, and there's regular crowd of locals and their friends who "hold court" here. Although Bebek Bengil is a huge restaurant, which suffers from the odd bus tour, it still manages (just about) to retain a relaxed and friendly atmostphere, and it is still possible to have a nice romantic meal here in one of the water-side bales. Overall the food is good, drink prices are fair and the service pretty good considering.

Café Tutmak - Jalan Dewi Sita. A hip café, with great coffee. A key hangout for creative expats and locals. Live acoustic music several nights a month (frequently unannounced). Distinguished musicians visiting Ubud are encouraged to collaborate and we have seen extraordinary violinists from Europe and Japan, Flamenco guitarists, harpists and even didgeridoo players here. If there's no live music, the conversation, coffee, backgammon, scrabble, drinks and desserts are more than enough to keep you happy here for hours.

Ary's Warung - Jalan Raya (just opposite Ubud Palace). A chic, extremely modern, but relaxed restaurant and bar with excellent recorded music and highly aesthetic surroundings. Late dining until about midnight. Drinking until 1am. A great place for an intimate little dinner, or a group party upstairs, or to just sit and watch the world go by.

Beggar's Bush - Campuhan. This venerable institution was founded by the illustrious Victor Mason, its erstwhile publican, and one of Bali's most colourful living characters. It flourished for years as the only true British Pub in Bali, and the headquarters of the Bali Hash, the Bali Bird Walks, and a whole passel of eccentric and fascinating regulars. Now, under new ownership and management, "The Bush" is closed for renovation, and sorely missed. Stay tuned for news of its re-opening.

Naughty Nuri’s Warung - Just across from the Neka Art Museum on the road leading north of town is a scruffy and laid back warung with huge square tables and long benches and a BBQ right next to a busy road. It may mean Nuri’s does not look like much, but then you realise that every table is full, and there are still people queuing to get in, then you start to wonder why? It is tempting to respond with one word “ribs” and indeed the pork ribs here are fantastic and good value. But it is more than that. Even the confused Japanese tourists who are occasionally dropped off at this tiny restaurant by their tour bus, cannot spoil the great atmosphere and friendly welcome, all helped along by the strongest vodka martinis I have ever had. Brian, the owner often holds court on the table nearest the street with an eclectic bunch of Ubud locals and the odd bemused tourist. Our favourite restaurant in Ubud, just don’t arrive at the middle of lunch or dinner time and expect to get a table, even a shared one.

Café ARMA - Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal . Pengosekan area. A rather elegant, large restaurant with live music on Thursday nights from 7 to 9 o'clock. Sometimes called the "Ubud Millionaire's Club", it is frequented at times by a sophisticated, but affable set of local figures. The friendly and knowledgeable chef is extremely talented, and produces fine Italian and Indonesian food from newly built kitchens which boast a first-rate bakery and authentic pizza ovens. Good wine. Great apple pie and breads. Super place for a big party or a "last-night-in-Ubud" dinner.

Café Exiles - Pengosekan Road, Pengosekan Village. This is the place to be on Saturday night, and sometimes on Wednesday, too. There's live music (blues, R&B, Funk) both nights. The only place in Ubud that really jams. A solid local crowd is augmented by visiting expats from glamourous enclaves in Seminyak and Sanur, plus a strong showing of Balinese and Javanese patrons from the intellectual and artistic set, who come up from Denpasar and elsewhere for the night.
Sai-Sai Bar Monkey Forest Road. This is the number one hangout for young local and visitors alike. Live music almost every night (pop or traditional bamboo gamelan). Big screen TV, Movies. Pizzas made in a wood-fired oven. A "barbecue" atmosphere in the back. Good, cold beers and a wild range of cocktails.

Putra Bar - Monkey Forest Road. Live music "jam sessions" Monday - Saturday, 9 - 11 p.m., with jazz and latin music on Monday and Thursday, A favourite watering hole for locals and visitors, with a relaxed, unpretentious ambience. It's nice to sit at the streetside tables and watch the world go past. Gung Oka, who manages the place is one of the friendliest guys in town, and he speaks excellent English.

The Chedi - In the Chedi Hotel, a few kilometres north of Sayan Village. On Friday nights David Ades, an absolutely outstanding saxophonist plays. You can have a really elegant and superb top quality dinner here, where the presentation, the service and the wine list are all truly fantastic. Alternatively we can also recommend the Amandari which is yet another 5* hotel with great views and superb food with prices to match.

Jazz Café - Jalan Sukma 2, Tebesaya, in the East part of Ubud, near the main cremation ground. Emphasis on blues and jazz guitar. Agung Wiryawan, the owner, is a skilful guitarist himself and has an extensive collection of recorded music. Happy hour with discounted beer from 5 - 8. Live music some Tuesday and Fridays from about 9 p.m., with local and visiting musicians, The owner encourages talented musicians who happen to be in Ubud to make cameo performances here during evening jam sessions. (Tel 976594).

Other places to try in Ubud:

Studio 22k - Jalan Raya, Tebesaya. A tiny, elegant little bar with antique woodcarvings and exotic gardens. They pour excellent cocktails, serve good wine, and the music is excellent.

Cafe Wayan - Monkey Forest Road. There are Balinese dishes on the menu every day, but on Sunday nights they do a huge buffet that's a real feast. Get plenty of exercise beforehand to whet your appetite.

Ketut's Place - Jalan Suweta, just north of the centre of Ubud. Ketut provides a Balinese banquet every Thursday night, in a traditional setting, with explanations, Balinese music, and (rather potent) Balinese alcoholic beverages. Stop by or call to book (tel. 975 304).

Ryoshi - Sushi and a vast Japanese menu in air conditioned spendour.

Apakabar - Italian/Indonesian cafe that visiting Italians give their unequivocal seal of approval.

Around Ubud:

Klub Kokos - Bangkiang Sidem village – A wonderful peaceful hideaway in a charming village setting , that can be reached by a wonderful scenic walk from the middle of Ubud. The location, and the personality of the owners make this place magic. Turn into the Ibah hotel driveway, follow signs saying "Going to the Hill" and walk north along a scenic ridge high up between two river valleys. About ten or fifteen minutes later you will find Klub Kokos nestled among the tall palm trees. Have lunch and continue your walk, or stay a while and meet the owners Kris and Cathy. You can also get there by driving north from Sayan, then taking the road which branches off to the east before you reach Payangan. Take a right at the T-junction in the middle of a simple village, then continue south a few kilometers to Bangkian Sidem. Most of the road is paved.

Our thanks to www.indo.com for their help and input to this guide.